a perfect day in antwerp
postcard from my favourite belgian city
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Familiar corners, new favourites — let me take you on a stroll through Belgium’s “second-largest metropolitan area after Brussels”1, and one of my personal favourites: Antwerp.
When talking about my home country, the cities that often come to mind are Brussels, the capital and home to many international organisations. Brugge and Ghent are crowd favourites for their canals, cobbled streets and medieval houses. And from time to time, you’ll hear mention of Antwerp. Antwerp (or Antwerpen in Flemish) is Belgium’s most fashionable city, a cultural hub that blends old masters with experimental contemporaries. Its architecture is full of charm, from gothic cathedrals to townhouses adorned with art nouveau. Trendy cafés, independent fashion brands and cosy bookshops line every street corner. The Port of Antwerp is “one of the biggest in the world, ranking second in Europe after Rotterdam”2, making it a prolific commercial centre. The city sparkles, not least thanks to its renowned diamond industry. Antwerp is constantly evolving, often one step ahead of any other Belgian city. Its people are proud of it. Who could blame them when living in such an inspiring place?
My mum is one of those. She grew up in Antwerp and reluctantly moved away when she married. Forty-five years later, she’s made her return — much to my delight, as I now get to stroll those familiar streets every time I visit.
Last month, I spent about five days in Belgium. I wasn’t sure about sharing a recap of my stay — I did post one last December. So instead of a full roundup, I thought I’d take you along on my perfect day in Antwerp, hitting some of my favourite spots, old and new.
Arguably, the best way to start any day is with a delicious breakfast. We’ve got a lot of ground to cover (I’m the walk-everywhere type), so we need sustenance. There are many brunch places to choose from in the city.
This time, I’m taking you to what’s become a go-to spot: FUNK Bakkerij (Kronenburgstraat 41A, 2000 Antwerp). From the playful name to the simple yet bold branding and impossible-to-choose-from menu, everything is designed to give you that typical laid-back vibe — something I think is the essence of Belgium (in my humble Belgian opinion). The décor is simple with a vintage touch, reminiscent of the vintage and antique shops dotted along Kloosterstraat. There’s a slight industrial feel too, nodding to the working port city roots, and their signature blue pops up in some of the furniture, like the plastic crates used as terrace tables. It’s pared back but beautifully curated, letting the pastries speak for themselves. Pistachio pain au chocolat, cinnamon biscoff buns, apple marzipan, praliné cruffin — just a few of the plant-based goodies on offer. Everything is freshly baked, seasonal (the menu changes weekly) and an absolute treat.
If pastries aren’t your thing for breakfast, just hang around until 10 a.m. for the breakfast plate: fresh sourdough, whipped butter, cheese or jam—think Danish breakfast with a Belgian twist. I’ve also heard the yoghurt bowl with homemade granola is divine. And come afternoon (Thursday to Saturday), you can swap your cuppa for a glass of wine.
Before leaving the area, pop next door to café canelé (Kronenburgstraat 41d, 2000 Antwerp) to pick up some artisan canelés — either for an afternoon pick-me-up or to take home. Actually, you might want to stop there first to make sure you get your hands on the biscoff canelé before it sells out. If it’s too late, the original vanilla, plum and chocolate ones are all approved by yours truly.
Now that our bellies are full, it’s time for a leisurely stroll through one of Antwerp’s many galleries/museums. It’s my perfect day, after all, so expect coffee, art and books in this post.
In December, I visited the M HKA - Museum of Contemporary Art. This time, we’ll head to the KMSKA - Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (Leopold de Waelplaats 1, 2000 Antwerpen). Conveniently, they’re just a street apart. So if you’re in the mood, you could visit both or even add FOMU - Photo Museum Antwerp, just metres away from M HKA, for a full cultural moment.
The KMSKA was closed from 2011 to 2023 for renovations, so this was only my second visit. It showcases many Belgian artists like Peter Paul Rubens, Rik Wouters, and James Ensor, but you’ll also find international gems — including two of my favourites, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Artemisia Gentileschi.
Before we move on to the next leg of our journey, I’m going to cheat a little. There are two other places I’d love to recommend as alternatives.
Let’s switch things up: art first, then something to eat.
The Middelheim Museum (Middelheimlaan 61, 2020 Antwerpen) is a modern sculpture park, similar to Jupiter Artland in Edinburgh for those familiar with it. Entry is free. You can stop by for a run, a walk, or even a picnic if the weather’s nice, all while admiring sculptures by national and international artists. Since it’s not right in the city centre (a short tram and walk — about 35 minutes in total), I think it’s sometimes overlooked.
After that, you could head back to FUNK, but I’ve got another place up my sleeve. We’re hopping on the tram anyway to get back to the city centre, so let’s make the most of it.
From Middelheim, head to the Zurenborg neighbourhood and stop at Rush Rush Coffee (Lange Altaarstraat 29, 2018 Antwerpen). Terrace, coffee, pastries, breakfast plates — it’s all there, so it makes a great alternative to FUNK. But the star here is their French toast. Not your classic (though always delicious) version — this one’s crème brûlée brioche, with a lightly caramelised surface. I’m drooling just writing about it. I also picked up a bag of their beans. Partly because I’m a sucker for good packaging, but mostly because the tomberry and sage notes intrigued me.
Alright — if we were sticking with the original itinerary, after the museum, I’d want to sit down for a bit. The best way to do that? Another café stop. My plan includes a bit of shopping, so I head in that direction and pick a new place from my never-ending list of cafés to try. cafématic (Vleminckveld 4, 2000 Antwerpen) is nestled in a quiet part of Antwerp’s historic centre. It’s small, cosy, and gives me canteen vibes. Think school-style furniture and checkerboard floor tiles. I’m still full from breakfast, so I just have an iced Americano, but their food menu looks promising. Tartines, hearty toasts, fresh soups and salads — I’ll definitely need to come back.
Right next door is the stationery and homeware shop Wunderkammer Stad Leest (Kleine Markt 14, 2000 Antwerpen). Traveler’s Notebook, MD Paper, Penco & more. Fellow pen lovers, consider yourselves warned.
This little browse was all the encouragement I needed to get into shopping mode. Fortunately, we are near Kammenstraat and Nationalstraat, where my favourite second-hand brand has two locations, along with many independent boutiques. I always check out ThinkTwice first to see if I can score a great bargain — and if not, I pop into Amsterdam label We Are Labels (Kammenstraat 43, 2000 Antwerpen) for their curated selection of beautiful pieces from indie brands. It’s more of a splurge, but when you find something that feels like it was made for you… Well, it’s hard to resist.
Feeling a bit peckish (but it’s well past lunchtime and we’re nearing le goûter), I usually reach for an authentic Belgian waffle from a street vendor. Warm, caramelised, slightly undercooked — it’s like biting into my childhood. You haven’t truly had waffles until you’ve tried one here.
So far, we’ve had coffee and art. What’s missing? Books, of course.
Next stop: Luddites Books & Wine (Hopland 34, 2000 Antwerpen). Before browsing, let’s head upstairs to the bar and grab a glass of wine. More specifically, a Pinot Auxerrois–Chardonnay — a wine from Antwerp!
It’s getting close to apéro time, so let’s sip slowly, unwind, and then our hands can wander through the mahogany bookshelves.
If I’ve been out all day, grabbing bites and popping into cafés, I usually head home and cook something cosy for dinner. On top of that, we’ve probably walked about 30K steps by now, and I’m tired! I also realise I don’t have that many dinner spots to recommend. So, my fellow Belgians or dear Antwerpians reading this — hit me with your favourites in the comments. That way, I can try them next time instead of relying solely on Google.
Credit where it’s due: Google came through. We’re off to Takumi Ramen. There are a few locations across the city, but we’re heading to the one near Antwerpen Centraal Station (Anneessensstraat 37, 2018 Antwerpen).
Gyoza, takoyaki, and vegan tofu black garlic miso ramen — I was impressed from start to finish.
And really, what better way to end a full day of exploring than slurping a comforting bowl of warm ramen?
I hope you’ve enjoyed coming along on my perfect day in Antwerp. If you’re looking for more recommendations, check out my previous postcard from belgium:
Or watch the two vlogs I posted about this trip on YouTube:
Are you a sweet or savoury breakfast person? Or do you like a nice balance?
Thank you for reading!
Until next time,
Amandine
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“Antwerp.” Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antwerp
“Port of Antwerp.” Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_of_Antwerp
What is the name of the last bookshop you visit in the video? I've been looking for a copy of "Perfection" and they had it! Looked like a nice shop!
I was surprised you didn't go in De Groene Waterman bookshop in Wolstraat. My favourite place for English language novels in Antwerpen.
what a gorgeous day, what gorgeous photos! i’d love to recreate this day for myself (ps i’m typically a savory girl but also love a good chocolate croissant just as much!)